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Mads TimmermannSkincare specialist
Routine

Exfoliation

Also called: Skin exfoliation, Chemical exfoliation, Physical exfoliation

Exfoliation means removing or loosening built-up dead cells from the skin surface or inside clogged follicles. Chemical exfoliants usually suit problem skin better than harsh scrubs.

At a glance

  • AHA exfoliants work mostly on surface texture and dryness.
  • BHA exfoliants such as salicylic acid are oil-soluble and better for clogged pores.
  • More exfoliation is not better if your skin burns, flakes, or feels tight.
  • Moisturiser and SPF matter more when exfoliation is in the routine.
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The short answer

Exfoliation means loosening or removing built-up dead skin cells. It can help rough texture, clogged pores, blackheads, and some body bumps when the ingredient matches the problem.

It can also wreck your week if you treat your face like a kitchen pan.

Chemical vs physical exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation uses acids or similar ingredients to loosen sticky cell bonds. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which is why a salicylic acid review[1] describes it as useful in oily, follicle-focused situations such as acne and comedones.

AHA exfoliants such as lactic acid and glycolic acid work more on surface texture and dullness. A lactic acid study[2] found epidermal and dermal changes with topical lactic acid, which helps explain why it appears in texture and dry-skin products.

Physical exfoliation uses scrubs, brushes, mitts, or friction. It can feel satisfying. It can also be too blunt for sensitive skin, inflamed acne, or a barrier already shouting at you.

What to do with this term

Choose the exfoliant by the job:

  • clogged pores or blackheads: BHA
  • dry rough texture: gentle AHA or urea
  • keratosis pilaris: lactic acid, urea, or salicylic acid
  • burning or stinging skin: pause exfoliation

The goal is smoother, calmer skin. If exfoliation makes your moisturiser sting, your face is not asking for a stronger acid. It is asking for fewer ideas.

Keep reading

Common questions

How often should I exfoliate?

Most faces do better starting 1 to 3 nights per week. Oily clogged skin may tolerate more; sensitive or dry skin may need less.

Is chemical exfoliation better than scrubs?

For acne, blackheads, and keratosis pilaris, chemical exfoliants are usually more targeted. Scrubs mostly work on the surface and can irritate easily.

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Citations

  1. Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-461. - PMID 26347269
  2. Smith WP. Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;35(3 Pt 1):388-391. - PMID 8784274